Sunny, well-bolted granite at the end of the Göscheneralp road — the friendliest rock in Uri, and the right place for a first multi-pitch route.
At the end of the road up the Göscheneralp valley, among glaciers and alpine lakes, is a corner of Uri where the climbing is generous rather than demanding. The Bergseehütte sits at 2,370m above the lake it is named after, with more than 155 routes and something like 450 pitches within an hour of the door. It is where I take people onto their first real multi-pitch route, where a party gets climbing-fit at the start of a trip, and where we spend a day after something serious.
The granite is as good as the Salbit’s — coarse, excellent friction — but the equipping is not the same. This is plaisir climbing: fully bolted sport routes on solid rock alongside longer lines that want a light rack. The hut was kept for many years by Toni Fullin, a local climber who bolted and maintained a great deal of what you will climb here, and it shows.
Across the valley the Feldschijen offers the other side of the coin — the finest rock in the area and some of its most serious routes. Between the two, and the crags down in the valley, a week here can be as easy or as committing as you want it.
Getting there and where we stay
Zurich to Göschenen by train, then the PostAuto towards Göscheneralp. Everything here starts from the parking at the Göscheneralpsee dam (1,792m) — paid at the dam itself, free a little lower down the valley. From there it is around 600m of ascent and 1.5 to 2 hours up to the Bergseehütte, which is much the most comfortable base. For the Feldschijen and the valley crags we stay in the valley instead, at the Zeltplatz Mattli campsite or the Gasthaus Göscheneralp.
Guidebooks
Schweiz Plaisir Ost (Filidor) has topos for most of what is here up to around 6b/6c, and Uri Excellence (SAC) covers both the Göscheneralp classics and the harder lines across the canton. The Gasthaus Göscheneralp publishes topos for the valley crags on its own site.
Göscheneralp is the friendly end of the Uri granite. For the long ridges see Salbitschijen, one valley over; for granite at 3,000 metres see the Furkapass. All three sit under Swiss Granite & Limestone.
Trip options
Requirements & gear
Nothing beyond a head for heights to begin with — this is where I take people onto their first real multi-pitch routes. Experienced climbers use it to get rock-fit at the start of a trip, or as a rest day after something serious.
- Harness, helmet and climbing shoes
- Basic set of nuts and cams for the longer lines — I bring the rack
- An 80m rope for some of the Kompressorwand pitches
- Via ferrata set if we climb one of the Klettersteige
- Full list on booking, rental available
Included
- Professional guiding from an IFMGA-certified guide
- Tailored itinerary to your skills and goals
- Technical equipment (ropes, protection; harness and helmet rentable on request)
- Safety and technical support throughout
- Arrangement of accommodation to your comfort and budget
Not included
- Transport (arranged to suit the objective)
- Drinks, lunch and snacks
- Insurance (accident, mountain rescue, travel, illness) is the participant’s responsibility — we recommend membership of the Swiss "Rega" rescue service.
Costs
Price is set by the objective; daily rates start around 600 CHF. Multi-pitch climbing is done with one or two clients; cragging days can take up to six.
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Furkapass — High Alpine Granite
Granite at three thousand metres, with snow peaks on the horizon and a glacier or two underfoot. Shorter routes than the Salbit, in a bigger setting.
Salbitschijen — Granite Spires & Ridges
A crown of granite towers above Göscheneralp, split by three of the finest ridges in the Alps — long days on immaculate rock, with a hut at the foot of them.
Urner Haute Route — Andermatt to Engelberg
A wilder, more demanding alternative to the classic Haute Route, through the remote Urner Alps from Andermatt to Engelberg.